May 15, 2019 since they were featured in reel rock 7 way back in 2012, the uk duo known as the wide boyz pete whittaker and tom randallhave become household names in the climbing community for their difficult offwidth ascents, affinity for painful hand jams, punishing basement crackclimbing training regimen, and hilarious crag antics. This is tom randall talking about the moves on the kraken v, his devon roof project a. Tom randall climbs the insanelooking the kraken v youtube. Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and uses specialized climbing techniques. Wide boyz tom randall and pete whittaker slay the cobra. Ffa sonnie trotter, 2006 in the cirque of the uncrackables in squamish, british columbia. Apparently, the character is not gay, as has been assumed by many fans. Sep 30, 2019 petes hard crack credentials also include the first ascents of crown of thorns 5. British rock climbers pete whittaker and tom randall have made the first ascent of black mamba, a 5. Cobra crack is an arching thinfinger crack splitting a steep wall at the cirque of the uncrackables on the chiefs backside. I thought about cobra crack, but the consensus seems to be on 14b and the number of repeats makes me wonder if its a tad easier. Out of the top10 listed, tom has done the fa of four and sonnie trotter two.
Logan barber makes 12th ascent of cobra crack gripped magazine. Two climbers send switzerlands longstanding gondo crack. Thats one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind. Oct 23, 20 pete whittakers ascent of baron greenback, e910 7a, at wimberry in may of this year was not only one of 20s best ascents but resulted in one of the uks hardest routes, period. Pete whittaker 1st ascent baron greenback, e910 7a, wimberry. The wideboyz, pete whittaker and tom randall have turned their attention to the opposite end of the crack spectrum, and are out in squamish, canada attempting one of the hardest finger cracks in the world, cobra crack, 5. Pete whittaker 1st ascent baron greenback, e910 7a. Diana gabaldon, author of the outlander series, has posted a clarification about black jack randall. Mar 04, 2019 weve got 2 brand new videos to show you today. Pete whittaker training in the cellar of tom randalls sheffield home for their 2012 wide crack tour of the u.
Located in utahs canyonlands, century crack thwarft numerous attempts, including the freeclimbing prodigy stevie haston, who estimated the grade to be around 5. I doubt his fingers would fit if tommys dont, as hes fairly taller. Alex honnold, pete whittaker, tom randall, ben harnden, and now mason. July 22nd, 2017 by gripped posted in news, profiles, rock. Tom randall on cobra crack following their recent ascent of cobra crack in squamish, canada, ukc caught up with tom randall and pete whittaker, aka the wideboyz, while they were having a wet weather rest day in squamish. But these guys climb more than just the widein 20 they made backtoback ascents of the thin, steep cobra crack 5. Its a big tick for us we are after all, just gritstone weaklings but its a stepping stone towards some bigger. A day with pamela shanti pack and devin fin youtube. At the time hed thought it was a step up from cobra crack and seeing me and pete hadnt long returned from doing that route, it seemed like a cool idea to go and try it. The crack was first attempted in 2001, and is considered the hardest offwidth crack climb in the world. Tom randall and pete whittaker repeat cobra crack at squamish. Crack climbing pete whittaker haftad 97819142762 bokus.
It looks as desperate as cobra crack, but with a tremendously longer approach and even worse weather. After spending months in his now famous training basement, a trip to squamish resulted in an ascent of cobra crack 5. Tbp 038 tom randall on his thorough and scientific. Dec 12, 2019 now, after making the first ascent of the stunning millennium arch in canyonlands and repeating the likes of cobra crack 5. Cobra crack where did the idea to go and do it come from. In 2005, swiss crack climbing ace didier berthod, who had redpointed 5. Oct 21, 2016 the ascent itself is groundbreaking, a 5. Frictionlabs pro pamela shanti pack and athlete devin fin found theirs in the heart of the american desert, establishing first ascents amongst the towering sandstone cliffs of indian creek, utah. October 2011, british climbers tom randall and pete whittaker climbed what many are hailing as the hardest offwidth in the world. Pete whittakers ascent of baron greenback, e910 7a, at wimberry in may of this year was not only one of 20s best ascents but resulted in one of the uks hardest routes, period. He has taken techniques learnt on his local crags and has applied them with great effect all over the world, most notably on the huge roof cracks in the desert areas of utah, and on the big walls of yosemite. Its set on a beautiful buttress of white granite, and the boys have graded it 8c in diificulty, although it is hard to grade a crack climb like this one. I think this element of the story got lost in the selfdeprecation of the protagonists, who dont seem to adhere to any strict training regimens. Hailed at the time as one of, of not the, most difficult.
Adventure enthusiasts and climbing junkies alike will not want to miss reel rock 7. Jan 24, 2018 frictionlabs pro pamela shanti pack and athlete devin fin found theirs in the heart of the american desert, establishing first ascents amongst the towering sandstone cliffs of indian creek, utah. Part of a series on climbing crack climbing in indian creek background golden age of alpinism history of rock climbing. Still from this video heres all of the best and most interesting rock climbing stuff that happened over the last week. Pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cuttingedge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of century crack 5.
Crack climbing by pete whittaker sample pages by vertebrate. Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and. Gruelling canyonlands crack climbed by pete whittaker, tom. Apr 10, 2018 hes particularly handy on the cracks, with highlights such as century crack, 14b or 8c in european money and cobra crack in squamish as well as a slew of other hard crack ascents all over the world. Tom randall, a top crack climber from the united kingdom, had attempted the route multiple times since 2014 and came close to completing it as a trad lead without the bolts. Tom randalls cobra crack climb finger workout epictv. Aug 22, 2017 ondra doesnt seem to be that into hard crack climbing, but then he sent the dawn wall so i dont think theres anything he cant do. With training complete, pete and tom jet off to squamish and get to the business of attempting cobra crack. The wideboyz, pete whittaker and tom randall have turned their attention. Britains pete whittaker and tom randall are back in canyonlands, usa, where in 2011 they made the first ascent the spectacular century crack. Feb 21, 2019 tom randall s pinky pullup crack climbing training epictv climbing daily, ep. The ability to climb cracks is at the core of a climbers craft. Did the cobra live up to expectations and did the squamish weather gods smile down on us.
Here is what tom randall who sent cobra crack had to say about meltdown, courtesy of rock and ice to help put the difficulty of meltdown into further perspective, consider the conclusions of tom randall, one of the best crack climbers around. On his blog he compared the crux to the famous cobra crack in squamish, british columbia 5. Okay, so the offwidthing thing of america wasnt exactly an end goal it was a process we needed to go through to complete the master plan. See below for the full list of cobra crack ascents. Renowned crack climber, author and wide boyz pete whittaker shares his new guide the definitive guide to crack climbing. According to, whittaker was continue reading wide boy pete whittaker sends the cobra crack 5. Crack climbing mastering the skills and techniques with. Petes hard crack credentials also include the first ascents of crown of thorns 5. Mason earle climbing cobra crack, one of the hardest crack climbs in the world.
The first ascent was in the 1980s by peter croft who aid climbed it. In todays climbing daily we take a trip to the edge climbing centre in sheffield to check out how tom randall is getting on. This is full of the usual trials and tribulations that surround hard ascents, and squamish can really dish it out, especially in the form of funky weather. The ascent was shown in the delightfully named sequel, wide boyz 2. A trip to the southwest of the us, the offwidth capital of the world, resulted in the first ascent of century crack 5. Ive been looking for something for quite some time that would take my crack climbing on a significant step in terms and strength and power. From the widest of cracks, the obvious challenge was then the thinnest. Nice piece by brits tom randall and pete whittaker about their successful ascents of sonnie trotters cobra crack 5.
Posts about crack training written by tomrandallclimbing. In 2011, tom randall and pete whittaker completed the first free ascent of century crack 5. Following their recent ascent of cobra crack in squamish, canada, ukc caught up with tom randall and pete whittaker, aka the wideboyz. Mason earle sends cobra crack in squamish gripped magazine. At the base of the route is a plaque signed by everyone who has ticked it. The first is a brand new bouldering video from alberto rocasolano. Crack climbing by pete whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb. Tom randalls pinky pullup crack climbing training epictv. Outlander author clarifies black jack randall sexual. The sizes of cracks vary from those that are just barely wide enough for the fingers to fit inside, to those that are so wide that the entire body can fit inside with all limbs outstretched. Alberto is probably best known for his first ascent of the massively overhanging 8c boulder problem, soyuz, near madrid in spain. In 2006, canadian sonnie trotter made the first free ascent of the cobra crack 5. When i first tried this move i was convinced that my forearm or finger would explode with a loud bang.
In 2005, swiss crackclimbing ace didier berthod, who had redpointed 5. After spending years climbing the worlds hardest offwidth cracks and culminating in the first ascent of century crack, tom randall and pete. Tom randall, cobra crack, squamish ben bransby, the beast, diamond. So where does this leave us, three weeks into a threeandhalf week long trip. The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange subculture. The pair is renowned for their brutal training and success on the hardest cracks in the world. Two climbers from england, pete whittaker and tom randall, set out to explore this world and climb the worlds hardest offwidths. The seventh annual reel rock film tour, launching in boulder, co on september th, 2012, brings the best in. Pete whittaker made a successful ascent last week, and tom managed to pull an ascent out of the bag on his last day. Logan barber makes 12th ascent of cobra crack gripped. The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange subculture rumoured to be dominated by knuckledragging, barbrawling dirtbags.
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